I am not a food connoisseur, I am a gourmand.
I am no food expert, I just love good food and when it comes to food sensations there is one that excites me like no other. Foie gras. The very mention of it sends my tastebuds into overdrive. I adore its soft, succulent, buttery texture, its curious fragrance. Yes, it is a food that courts controversy. But while some turn away with loathing, I quiver with excitement at the very mention of fattened goose livers. I will only eat in French restaurants if they promise a gout-inducing portion of foie gras on their menu.
So it was with huge anticipation that I headed down to the Orrery on Marylebone High Street. And I was not to be disappointed. My friend and I arrived almost simultaneously – I disguised as a Lady Gaga backing singer (don’t ask). When I gave my name, I was greeted with a knowing smile “ah yes, the lady who absolutely must have foie gras”. Yes, that’s me. At time of booking, the restaurant had asked me whether I had any special requests and had noted my impassioned response.
Comfortably seated, aperitifs ordered, tasting menu dismissed, we scanned the à la carte menu. To our delight there were three starters in which foie gras played a central role. We were grinning broadly now. And, yet, could it be? Surely not! But, yes, there was more joy to be had. Our plump little friend was to take a starring role in one of the main courses too. When the waiter glided over to our table to take our order he was amused by our excitement and nearly applauded our decision to choose all three foie gras starters (Foie gras parfait, pain Poilâne, apricot chutney; Pineau des Charantes poached foie gras en jelly, pears, brioche and Beef consommé en croute, seared foie gras), accompanied by a sauternes, of course. For our main courses we opted for Tournedos à la Rossini, celeriac purée, sauce Périgourdine (which included seared fois gras) and Braised shin of beef à la Bordelaise (the only dish without a trace of foie gras).
Every mouthful of the three first courses was heavenly. My friend and I like a chat, yet we were respectfully silent at the serving of our dishes. Forks grasped tightly between thumb and forefinger we swooped on the perfectly balanced dishes and devoured each and every one of them. When food is this good, refinement and table manners are vanquished and replaced by the animal instinct to trough. We stopped short of licking our plates. Just.
If I do have to express a little disappointment it was with the desserts. However, I think my objectivity had left me at this stage. I had been seduced by those gloriously gorgeous geese livers and the desserts just couldn’t captivate me.
Conversations with my friend became more coherent during dessert. The babblings of the foie gras-intoxicated subsided. Our bellies full, conversation shifted from food and returned to my dramatic makeover (prior to the dinner I’d been to the MAC counter in Selfridges and asked for some eye drama, the makeup artists delivered with fabulously theatrical results) and my latest (bonkers) business idea.
We paid and drifted out onto the High Street. We agreed that the staff were charming and suitably attentive. We silently thanked head chef Igor Tymchyshyn. We also silently thanked each other. After all, a fine dining experience is complete only if it is in the company of a bosom buddy and amusing friend.
One final comment: residents of the enchanting Marylebone, in case you hadn’t noticed, you are living in central London, not a bleeding “village”. Get over it.
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